There are lessons to be found in everything, right?
I set out last weekend on what I wanted to be a vacation of personal discovery. A week of unscripted adventure in Jackson, Wyoming.
It has been an adventure, and a week of firsts.
I picked up my first hitchhiker. Although, it was more of a dream come true than an act of selfless compassion, seeing as she was an attractive Stanford undergrad.
It wasn’t my first time sleeping in a teepee, but I can safely say it’s one of the first times. The dwelling you see here sits out behind my cousin Mike’s house. He lives there with his beautiful and hardcore girlfriend, Beverly (whom I’m pretty sure could out-hunt, out-fish and out-bike me without scratching her somewhat poorly applied fingernail polish.)
I stayed either in the Teepee or on Mike and Bev’s couch for a couple days. Bev took me to yoga. The three of us went fishing and ate Thai food. We fished the Hoback and Snake rivers.
No, that’s not a banana
Incidentally, it was the first time I’ve caught a fish in another state on a fly rod.
It could have gone on like this forever–me catching tiny fish, Mike congratulating me, rubbing elbows at Jackson’s classiest establishments and seeing absurdly good Wes Anderson movies at the Teton Theatre.
But this was a quest which could not be solely derived from the mooching of family hospitality.
NO!
This was a quest of self-discovery, after all.
I have long wanted to do a multi-day backpacking trip by myself–to prove I could connect all the dots and not die.
So I mooched off Mike and Bev’s knowledge of the Jackson area, and mooched their map and compass and let them design a three-day route for me in Grand Teton National Park.
It began with a ferry ride across the park’s Jenny Lake. I followed throngs of tourists along a one mile path to ‘Inspiration Point’, a name I found strange owing to the fact it looked out onto the rather plain-looking lake and away from the far more inspiring Tetons.
After Inspiration Point, the crowds quickly dissipated and I began to feel more like the solo trekker I imagined. There were still plenty of other hikers, but at least it didn’t feel like Splash Mountain any more.
The grade was easy, the moose were present, and afternoon sunlight glittered from the shimmering wings of songbirds as they took turns landing on my shoulder for whistled duets.
Cascade Canyon is a must see, by the way, if you ever do make it to Teton.
I spent the first night at a campsite just below Lake Solitude, my first destination.
View from my first campsite, with the Grand Teton in the center
It was a pretty tough situation to beat. But in terms of quasi-masculine displays of self-sufficiency–I had bigger fish to fry.
My goal for the second day was to hike down into Grizzly Bear Lake, on the other side of a high divide from Lake Solitude. Grizzly Bear Lake is off-trail, and the state plants fish in it. Both Mike and Bev had heard it’s pretty awesome.
I humped my way up that divide, which could have just as easily been a hike up K2 for how much I was wheezing and hallucinating.
Whatever, I made it, and trekking poles are cool now
From the top of this pass I could look down onto Grizzly Bear Lake. Making my way down off the trail proved a bigger challenge than I expected, especially for someone with zero internal navigation ability.
I got cliffed-out a few times before deciding to set up camp on a shelf above the lake.
I then grabbed my rod and slowly made my way down a steep scree field to the lake shore–descending into what was unquestionably one of the most beautiful environments I have ever seen. The wildflowers were so thick underfoot that each step felt a kind of misdemeanor.
The lake had absolutely no evidence of humanity’s presence. I could no longer see the trails on the slope behind me, there were certainly no trails in front of me.
It is a truly sublime place. I was entirely alone and emotionally serene.
A small waterfall feeds the lake’s West side, all flowing to an outlet in the Northeast corner. I found the fish there, holed up around a log jam, and it was on.
I don’t know if the fish were dumb, or inexperienced, or if they were just trying to contribute to my perfect evening. I do know they were biting and I pulled at least six of them by dangling streamers or nymphs right in front of their face.
Evening evolved into early twilight and I made my way back up the scree field. Looking back I saw the ripples of rising fish all over the lake. They weren’t just at the outlet after all.
I slept in and read for hours the next day, slogging my way back up to the trail mid-afternoon and hiking out through Paintbrush Canyon, equally as beautiful as Cascade.
I needed to hitchhike the four or so miles to my car, parked back at the Jenny Lake Campground. It was my first time really hitchhiking, so I experienced both sides of that culture on this trip.
I was picked up by a middle-aged couple in a little compact, listening to electronica and groovin’ on the sunset. The first thing they did when I sat in the back was offer me a PBR.
“Wow, nothing could get me down, ” I’m thinking.
Or, so I was thinking.
The couple dropped me off at my car, telling me to ‘pay it forward.’
Totally, I replied.
I went to reach for my keys and, what’s this? Oh, that’s funny, the seam on the front zipper of my bag is split.
And everything I had been keeping in that pocket was still there–except for my keys.
Of course, it would have been far to logical for me to have a spare somewhere on the car–plus I have this stupid alarm system that would have woken up the entire park if I tried to get in.
So I sat there by my car, laughing and cursing.
“Mission 99% Accomplished,” I say to myself, taking out my phone. And on this journey, supposedly proving my self-sufficiency, I called Bev and mooched a 2-hour round-trip ride back to their house.
I woke up the next day (Saturday), wondering what to do. Do I use Bev’s AAA to get a locksmith to break into my car, disable the alarm and make me a new key? Is there some parcel company that ships on Sunday, so I could get my spare sent quickly over?
Then I think of one last ditch idea. With Bev watching, I pull my tent out of my backpack, reach into the tent’s pockets…and pull out my keys.
heh, heh.
Bev wasn’t able to take me back into the Park (frankly, I think I already am ride-indebted to her forever). I did mooch their jeep into Jackson though with a cardboard sign reading “South Jenny Lake Campground” and hitched a ride back out to my car.
The rest of the day was spent aimlessly wandering Jackson before an epic evening mountain bike ride Mike described as a “Jackson Classic.”
We finished at a cafe where Mike and I ordered burgers topped with hotdogs topped with bacon. Bev had a chicken wrap.
Mission totally accomplished
I’m driving home soon, with hours of road time to find my lessons.
See some more pictures from my trip on this Facebook album.